I VERY often get frustrated by the way foreigners act in other countries...especially Americans...some people have no sense of respect, responsibility, or cultural decorum and it drives me bananas. There were actually some of these people on the trip to the DMZ with us and it was so frustrating...I thought to myself. "Wow, I am so annoyed with these people, do they not understand how incredibly blessed they are to live the lives they live? Do they not understand that not 3km away people are living in complete and udder oppression? People are starving?" It was all I could do to bite my tongue...spend time with MY group members and enjoy the tour for what it was. An incredible experience and history lesson.
We started out tour in Camp Bonifas. We had a small debriefing which did a very quick run through of the history of the Korean War...which countries supported which side...how the DMZ came to be...tragedies that have happened in the DMZ...what the DMZ used to look like...what it looks like now...and how to handle ourselves while we were in the JSA.
Then we boarded their bus and entered the DMZ. We learned that there are a group of South Koreans who actually live in the DMZ and work in the fields. There are specific requirements for this group of people many of which I do not remember...this is when I need John here to help me...This group of people lives and works on the DMZ, they have their own elementary school from k to about grade 8 and then the students can choose which high school and university they want to go to and the Government will pay for it. These people also live tax free and make roughly $82,000 a year. Men cannot marry into this group but women can.Next, we went to JSA (Joint Security Area) and we were able to go into the UNCMAC (United Nations Command Military Armistice Commission) This is where North Korea and South Korea literally have buildings next to each other. There is a border line that separates the two countries that runs something like 250km...This line is defined by one of three things...white markers, yellow signs, or a concrete slab. The buildings in this area are technically in both North and South Korea. I was able to stand in both countries at once in one of these buildings. Here our guide told us some very interesting stories about things that have happened in these buildings. Our basic instructions for this leg of the tour were: No pointing or gesturing, no waving, smiling, or interacting with North Korean soldiers, stay with in the chained areas, only take pictures when we tell you it is okay, and there will be a North Korean guard watching you through binoculars take as many pictures of him as you would like! Done...done...and DONE!
Our next stop was look out tower 3. This is on a peninsula of sorts within the DMZ meaning it is surrounded on 3 sides by North Korea. From here we could see Propaganda Village, a jamming tower, a loud speaker tower, and various North Korean checkpoints.Propaganda Village, this is perhaps the thing you think of when you think of the DMZ...the HUGE North Korean flag and flagpole. The flag pole is 160 meters tall (525 feet)....really stinkin' tall and the flag is crazy big. It tears under it's own weight, takes 40-50 men to raise it up the flag pole, and barely moves in the wind. It is 270kgs (about 600 pounds) and something like 31 meters long. The South Korean flag and pole are not nearly as big...the flag poles became a kind of silent game of 'who's is bigger.' North Korea defiantly won that one!
Then we got back in the bus and headed down the hill to another look out post. It was at this spot that some South Korean soldiers were axed to death, by North Korean soldiers, when they were trimming a tree. This is also the spot of a bridge called "The Bridge of No Return." Located in the (JSA), the so-called "Bridge of No Return" crosses the Military Demarcation Line (MDL) between North Korea and South Korea. It was used for prisoner exchanges at the end of the Korean War in 1953. The name originates from the claim that many POWs captured by the United States did not wish to return home. The prisoners were brought to the bridge and given the choice to remain in the country of their captivity or cross over to the other country. But if they chose to cross the bridge, ...whatever they decided was where they would live and they could never to back to the other side.
After we left the JSA we went to Incursion Tunnel #3. There have been 4 tunnels that have been discovered from North Korea to South Korea. One in 1974, one in 1975, one in 1978, and one in 1990. There were discovered through various methods. The first tunnel was discovered because South Korean soldiers saw steam rising from the ground. We went to the 3rd tunnel the one discovered in 1978. This tunnel is really far under the ground and the only reason they discovered it was because a North Korean refugee who worked on the tunnels told them where to look. They have discovered 4 tunnels and they believe there to be about 10 more. These tunnels would have been used during a surprise attack. The North Koreans said the reason for the tunnels was because they were mining coal. There is no evidence of coal in any of the tunnels and they are dug through granite. One thing I found very interesting is that only foreigners can visit the DMZ and tunnel number 3. People who have a South Korean passport are not allowed to visit the DMZ. I thought this was strange because this is their history. Imagine if you couldn't visit historical places in your country.
Next we headed to an observation tower, where we could not cross a photo line, and we couldn't really observe too much because it was such a hazy day.
After the tunnel we went to Dorasan Station the last train station in South Korea and the one that leads to the first train station in North Korea. This station was built in 2004 when the 2 Korea's were really talking about reunification. Sadly, this station is not used for it's original purpose. The only trains that come to this station are commuter trains that lead only to South Korea. The people are very hopeful for reunification one day. This used to be something I heard about a lot when I first came, but ever since March when North Korea attacked a South Korean submarine I don't hear too much about reunification.
When we got back to Seoul John, Kaley and I decided that since we were so close to the Korean War Museum we should go and check it out. We didn't spend too much time there but it is a very large museum with a lot of statues, air crafts, tanks, guns, and boats used in the various wars Korea has been a part of.
My favorite part was the turtle boat that the Koreans used against the Japanese. The top of the boat has a hard protective shell, much like...you guessed it a turtle. The Japanese are very good with hand to hand combat so the Koreans designed this boat to gain back the advantage. This boat prevented Japanese soldiers jumping into Korean boats.
When we finished at the museum we decided that we deserved a little treat so we tried to get some pistachio ice cream. That was an epic fail but the lady who ran the shop also ran another one next door that sold Pat bing su. This is a dessert that Kaley has been raving about for the last 7 months and I have never had it. It is shaved ice, covered with red bean, sweetened condensed milk, fresh fruit, rice cakes, cereal bits, syrups, and cocoa powder. It was delicious. After our delicious dessert we headed back home to meet Ian and Laura for supper. We went for donkas and that too was delicious!
It was a very good day on Saturday. One feeling that I had throughout the day was the feeling of thankfulness. I am so thankful for the life I have. I am thankful to be born in a country where I have so much freedom. I am thankful to have a loving family and friends. I am thankful to have a faith and have the opportunity for freedom of religion. I am thankful that I have met amazing people in Korea and they are willing to sight see with me. I am truly blessed. Truly blessed.Holly
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